Medieval Wall

Location of Fortress

Fortress Medvedgrad is located on southern hillside of mountain Medvednica, on the Mali Plazur hill, 593 meters above sea level. Life on it can be traced back to prehistoric times. Cave Veternica was discovered in the second half of the last century and it is the most significant palaeolithic locality in the Zagreb region. It can be classify as the most important historic deposit of that type in the entire South-Eastern Europe.¹ Apart from discoveries of many plant and animal species which have had its permanent residence in this area,² many objects had also been discovered, which proves that the man has lived on this territories in earliest times of human civilization.³ Medvedgrad has excellent position for supervising of surrounding territory. It was possible to control the area from the fortress all up to the Turopolje in the south, and the strategically precise point for the supervision of communication routes to the Slavonia toward the west.

Origin of Name

Name of fortress is linked with the name of mountain Medvednica, on which Cave Bear obviously has been the most widely spread animal, and it is considered that the name comes from Old Slavics word for bear.

Historians of Medvedgrad

First systematic review of Medvedgrad history which incorporates usage of historical sources, was brought by Ivan Kukuljević Sakcinski in his work Događaji Medvedgrada, published in the middle of 19. century. To his work later researchist of Medvedgrad mainly refers. Ivan Tkalčić who wrote the work Spomenici Zagreba in 1889 is one of them. Fair amount of facts are adopted from Kukuljević, above all theory about the builder of fortress and the completion of construction in 1254. The fact is that for him Medvedgrad stands as „the fear and the horror for all neighbors, and especially for the Gradec“.⁴ In work Medvedgrad i njegovi gospodari, Nada Klaić bringing the latest examination of history of this town, referring to older historians, but also bringing some significant new conclusions. In her major work she provides the review of Medvedgrad history and his rulers referring to historical sources.

Theories About the Origin of Town

There are a number of theories about the uprise of Medvedgrad. Most represented is one in which it is considered that Medvedgrad is build after Tatarian invasion to this regions in 1242. For example this theory is represented by Ivan Kukuljević Sakcinski. According this theory the fortress was build from 1249 to 1254, by bishop Philip on the land of royals but with funds of episcopacy. Its purpose was defense of the Kaptol and bishop’s properties from Tatar menace. It is argumented that fortress had large strategic importance because the Gradec has not been fortified yet, and the fear of the new burglary of Tatars still exists. A donation was issued to Bishop Philip by the King Bela IV, but that document has not been preserved.⁵

Nada Klaić has presented another theory according which even before the invasion of Tatars in these areas, Medvedgrad was built by Herceg Koloman, as court and not as a fortress. As proof for her claim she does not use a written historical source, but appearance of town, claiming: “if in one so big complex (large regarding to towers built in that time) area, time and the money for the construction of palace and chapels are found, this cannot be kastrum built ad hoc in the striking fear of the new enemy attack.⁶ She also regards as a fiction, the bishop’s erection of Medvedgrad by Zagreb prebendaries in 14th ct.⁷

Drago Miletić opposes her, considering that it is not the court, but the town of nobles or the burg. By his opinion Medvedgrad was built after Tatarian invasion. This influences increased erection of towns of nobles. If we consider that King Bela IV escaped from Tatars and was hiding in Zagreb (the Gradec),but also that he established row of the fortress along the coast of Danube, while Slavonia region lacks at least one safe fortress which in case of new Tatarian invasion would provide safe place for the King, we can assume that Bela IV started the erection of Medvedgrad. The theory can also be confirmed that Philip was appointed Bishop as Kings man of thrust. After Philip was appointed Archbishop of Esztergon in 1262, Bela takes his fortress back.⁸

Most recent researches in field of Art History which investigate and compare sculptural decoration (early gothic capitals) in Spiš, Ócsa and Medvedgrad spreaded area of Herceg Koloman patronat and royal sculptor workshop and reconsideration of Pope’s document from 1252 conformed tesis of Nada Klaić about fortress building period and participation of Herceg Koloman in it. Also confirmed is tesis of Vladimir Bedenko that south tower was built by Kaptol of Zagreb after Tatar invasion.⁹

Rulers

Ever since it was built a lot of rulers – both clerical and civilian – replaced each other in ruling it. Through seven centuries 107 of them ruled there. Due to unsolved ownership relationship it was also subjected to frequent conflict of episcopic and civil rulers and therefore often changed owners.

About ten years after the control was taken by Bishop of Zagreb Philip, King Bela IV recognizes strategic advance of city and puts it under his control. In return Philip becomes Esztergon’s Archbishop. City government was entrusted to Ban Stjepko Šubić. Medvedgrad than becomes very important base in defense of Upper Slavonia.¹⁰ After King takes over power of Medvedgrad for eleven years on kings behave rulers were various Bans. In the following years episcopic and civil rulers were exchanged as a owners (from Zagreb Bishops to King himself). There were also clashes for ownership over fortress and Medvedgrad was called Damned city in secret letters from Kaptol (Maledictum Castrum Medved).¹¹ Most notorious owners of Medvedgrad were counts Celjski who become owners of Medvedgrad at 1436. After there regency owners of the fortress were few noble families (Gregorijanci, Erdödy, Zrinski…). Strong earthquake in 1590 ruined front walls, city hall and chapel that they were barely inhabitable. After brake of Zrinski-Frankopan conspiracy in 1671 Medvedgrad was took over by royal chamber but even then was called ruin in various documents. Few more owners exchange in Medvedgrad.The last were barons Kulmer and owned it till the end of Second World War.

City Problems

Medvedgrad is for our region big and expansive city for maintenance. It was small mountainous and relatively poor manors which was unable to cover expanses of its support. So finances and support created enormous problems for Medvedgrad. His owners trough its castellans resorted unpopular acts to obtain the finances for support which was reason for continuous clashes with neighbors.

The fact that royal families owned Medvedgrad in some period of time shows that they were in need to buy one more estate whose price was above the real because it was in immediate neighborhood of administrative, political and clerical center of Slavonia. There are no facts that families of Babonić, Celjski or Zrinski really live in Medvedgrad or they have just install theirs squads.

Parts of the Fortress

Medvedgrad has irregular ground plan which is alike trapeze with rounded corners. It is no wonder because it is held on hill so its walls and architecture are adjusted to its irregular surroundings. Approach to the city was trough gentle slopes on the north side of hill and to enter in residential part of town one should pass through outer port and long infundibular corridor and two more gates which were well defended. It was surrounded by double defending walls with entering corridor on west side. Inner part of city can be divided in three sections: residential part on the north, defending tower on south and spacious yard in between. In north residential part almost all of Medvedgrad objects are held. On far north part there is older defending tower today in ruins. In 13th and 14th century was relatively isolated from other buildings which were held more on south. On east and west from entrance there are two palaces. West palace was build later and was gradually spread to the north. Chapel of St. Philip and Jakob is held on higher easter part of city and north of palace. It has regular central octagonal plan with shallow apse on west side. It is build of bricks while outside corners are reinforced with chiseled stones. Other parts of architectonic shapes: portal, windows, columns, capitals, rose window and vault, are made of stones. St. Philip and Jakob Chapel is oldest and most representative chapel of royal city in Croatia and also most important structure of intermediate Romanesque-Gothic style. In this part of city we can find some economic objects which are mostly in ruins today. Near chapel there is a well which in good condition is even today. In south part of city there is younger defending tower that dominates the whole fortress. It was build on square base made of bricks and stones.¹²

Renovation

The Croatian Conservation Institute started by the end of 70s in 20 century excavation and renovation of Medvedgrad fortress and here are found: axe from Bronze age, gothic signet rings, parts of ceramics glass and weapon. Chapel is exposed in 1981 and completely renovated.¹³ At 1992 place was chosen where memorial monument in honor of the fallen for the country will be build. It is placed bellow south tower on outside of city and named Oltar domovine, work of sculptor Kuzma Kovačić.